But I personally think it is not really possible to distinguish a boulder onsight or flash. In other words, you climb it … Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports, Advocating for Deaf Climbers: Sonya Wilson, Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton, Paraclimbing Competitions: Althlete Interviews, Book Review: Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss, Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back, It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019, John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone, Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up, Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie, CHINA - From Yangshuo, to Getu, to Liming, UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller, Planning for Mt. Whether selling to, engaging with or supporting customers, marketers must now capture and use every insight possible. After all, you don’t have to hold on as long or reach as high to make the clip. For example, if you know that the route you’re attempting is a 5.7, does that constitute enough beta to disqualify the climb from the “on-sight” status? “Practice” can come in many forms, including previously attempting and failing on a route or to, p-roping the route before attempting a lead climb. Onsight 27: 27 Flash 2: 2 Red point 4: 4 Tick 7: 7 Top rope 1: 1 Attempt 1: 1 Target 1: 1 Comment keywords. because so much information is available regarding routes via guide books and websites. You might get a flash of some dagger eyes, but hey, this is climbing, its important, so get it right! To complete a "true" onsight - and be able to legitimately call it an onsight (well, maybe) – the following must be accomplished: Don’t even look up at the climb and study it. In our opinion, if you climb a route that you know little to nothing about you can likely consider it an on-sight climb. You might be wondering, why is it important to know all this climber terminology? So, in the interest of climbing purity, we must call it a toprope flash or “TRash” as in “I TRashed that route!”. An 8a Gives. If climbers onsighted grades similar to their redpoint performance, we would see a straight 45 degree line (indicated … In the world of climbing, specifically sport climbing, the words “on-sight”, “redpoint”, and “flash” all refer to successfully lead climbing a route; conversely, if you follow a lead climber while you’re on top-rope than you’ve “top-roped ” a route. Keith Bell takes us on a tour of this fine line. It’s a redpoint. I agree he will have climbed that bit of rock ground up for sure, but as I said he has already done this. During this comparative analysis we are going to take a closer look at … So 99.99% of us don't get a tronsight. To “flash” a route is to climb to the top on the first attempt; however, it technically implies that you have some pre-existing knowledge regarding the climbing route. What skills make a good onsight climber? You might hear climbers refer to climbing near their redpoint. 1 000 points. One of the more common climbing terms and one of the easiest to explain. Most failed onsights are due to having gone … With the redpoint you are sending the climb after previous attempts. If you flash a climb at the gym, call it a "glash.". Alexandria, VA 22304, bing, there are a few words that specifically refer to successfully completing rock climbs. So, it's called something different. Every time you try a route, even if there’s a 99.9 percent chance of failure, go for the onsight. This type of competition provides many different climbing routes. Onsighting high grades is the holy grail of sport climbing and hard trad. Hardest redpoint vs. hardest onsight/flash I️ would describe myself as mostly an onsight climber, as in I️ generally pick routes that I️ know are going to be right at or slightly above my onsight limits and will probably be flashable or sent with a … This is obviously supremely easier than the redpoint. Route finding is crucial in onsighting. What skills make a good onsight climber? Onsight, flash, tronsight, redpoint, pinkpoint – If you aren’t quite sure what these terms mean, basically they describe variations of getting “the send” by climbing a route from top to bottom without falls or takes. This is how Redpoint stands to help and stands alone: Letting you orchestrate large volumes of customer data, and operationalize them to drive revenue. The flash of a route is given less value than an onsight, but the route has still been climbed in the first attempt. Three main ways to improve your Onsight ability. So next time your buddy tries to claim an onsight, you can now sound educated and correct him or her. In most climbing cases, the bottom-to-top send on the first attempt is really a flash. Onsight Vs. Redpoint Setting. Redpoint. Very strictly speaking: for an onsight you're not allowed to have any information before climbing it and nobody is allowed to give you beta while you climb it. On the x-axis, we have plotted the maximum (redpoint) performance. Also V-thread. If you’re new to climbing, you might find yourself hearing plenty of words that have no meaning to normal people. It’s been a while since i’ve blogged. Also, you wouldn’t want to accidentally tell someone that you on-sighted a route when in reality you redpointed it; s. uch misunderstandings happen, but you don’t want people to think that you’re intentionally misleading them regarding your climbing ability. Sponsors. Short term tactic – Route Reading and Planning This is done without falling, resting on gear, or using gear to help themselves advance on the route. Each route has a different level of difficulty and a unique point value commensurate to the level of difficulty. Flash vs Onsight. Onsight Tactics. If you overheard the climbers next door say there’s a dyno at that one spot, well, oops, no more onsight. It implies an onsight but on top rope. Unlike a redpoint, nobody brags about a pink point, so we aren’t even going to be concerned about how many times it took to get the send. If you nail the send on the second try, say you got a red-2-pointer. The tick type notes are a bit vague about the ethic, and should say: "I led this route, without falling, resting, working or inspecting the moves, but not on my first attempt, << lowering and pulling the rope after each failed attempt. You got help! If you nail it on the 200th try it’s a red-200-pointer. abseiling Also rappelling. If you get it on the first try with out any beta ever, too bad, it’s not an onsight and it never, ever will be an onsight (if by the mere fact that it is not a first ascent because someone else put up the draws.) While the on-sight, flash and redpoint are very commonly used, there are some other terms that you could come across in your climbing endeavours. second dropdown: [onsight, flash, redpoint, …] where the contents of the first dropdown might depend on the type of the route and the contents of the second might depend on the selection made in the first. As a final quick review: on-sighting a route occurs when you lead climb a route without any previous practice or in, formation regarding the climb, flashing occurs when you have some information but still climb to the top of a route on your first attempt, and redpointing a route refers to successfully climbing a route that you’ve had practice on before – most usually thi. Route information can come from a variety of sources; for example, maybe your climbing partner gave you advice before you began the route, you read up on the route via a guidebook, or you simply watched a climber ahead of you to learn from their mistakes. Gaining a basic understanding of photography and keeping your vision in mind will help you when it comes to navigating that maze of modern issues such as film vs digital, full-frame vs sub sensors, zooms vs fixed lenses, stills and/or video, off-camera flash and tilt … However, understanding climber terminology will help you blend in wi, th the climbing culture, and will keep you from being confused when other climbers are throwing around jargon that you’re unfamiliar with. What is the difference between an onsight competition and a redpoint competition? We consider these types of debates to be a bit extreme. Learn about creating circuits. While supporting even the most unique … A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. While there is plenty of jargon for all aspects of climbing, there are a few words that specifically refer to successfully completing rock climbs. On the x-axis, we have plotted the maximum (redpoint) performance. Photos Browse all photos . A retro flash or retro on-sight is used to indicate that you have already climbed the route before, but have completely forgotten about it. you’re attempting is a 5.7, does that constitute e. nough beta to disqualify the climb from the “on-sight” status? Technology is changing fast so it’s important to keep learning. In some cases, people actually prefer to onsight a route but are forced to flash it, because somebody gave them the beta without it being asked for. Required fields are marked *. Redpoint is when you finally, after at least one attempt, lead the climb (placing your own draws each time), completely and cleanly. Alexandria, VA 22304, 5314 Eisenhower Ave. The Flash – The flash is like an onsight but it's not. Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. There are NO red points at a gym because the draws are always up. Forget it, no onsight for you! If climbers onsighted grades similar to their redpoint performance, we would see a straight 45 degree line (indicated … See details below: On-sight There are certain climbing terms that are really confusing. The process by which a climber descends a fixed rope. The basic strategy for the red point is to warm up on easy climbs. Pinkpoint is when you send the climb on lead, but the draws/protection were already placed. Onsite Versus Hosted Servers – Which One Is Right for Your Business? Tell your beta-spraying buds keep their mouths closed or you won’t give them one of the celebratory beers. “Practice” can come in many forms, including previously attempting and failing on a route or top-roping the route before attempting a lead climb. The world of climbing is full of jargon that is unintelligible to the casual observer. Tombstone Wall is a classic John Ewbank 15 (5.7) on Mt. Simply put, climbing onsight means climbing a route "clean" in one go without … In this video I try to answer these questions by comparing my onsight and redpoint attempt on Rain Man 8a (Monkey Island, Zillertal). I'd say that I can onsight F6b+ around 90% of the time, that falls around to 50% at F6c and around 20% for F6c+ (likely those routes that aren't really F6c+). This way, the tick type list doesn't explode as it does currently and it doesn't complicate things much for the users. In this day and age, a true on-sight rarely occurs because so much information is available regarding routes via guide books and websites. It’s very difficult to onsight anywhere close to your redpoint grade, but good tactics can make a big difference immediately and long term strategies will improve your ability in the long term. However, understanding climber terminology will help you blend in with the climbing culture, and will keep you from being confused when other climbers are throwing around jargon that you’re unfamiliar with. Ground-up redpoint. The purest form of on-sighting occurs when you know lit, erally nothing about a route, and this usually happens either by choosing a route at random, climbing the wrong route by mistake, or putting up the first ascent of a route that’s never been climbed before. There is no such thing as a gymsite, not even by the route setter, because most route setters are climbing sections of the route while they are putting it up. Boulder. In the world of climbing, specifically sport climbing, the words “on-sight”, “redpoint”, and “flash” all refer to successfully lead climbing a route; conversely, if you follow a lead climber while you’re on top-rope than you’ve “top-roped” a route. As long as you’re enjoying rock climbing, and you’re making it to the top of your chosen, routes, that’s really all that matters. Route information can come from a variety of sources; for example, maybe your climbing partner g, ave you advice before you began the route, you read up on the route via a guidebook, or you simply watched a climber ahead of you to learn from their mistakes. The tronsight. Route. Upload a photo of route ★ Blabbermouth VS 13 - P8290031.JPG. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin so that he could avoid using it for a foot- or handhold. Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When... 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Generally, especially in regards to on-sighting and flashing routes, this terminology implies that you cleanly lead the routes – taking zero falls or hangs in the process. We’re sad to have less SD routes, but psyched on all the new Smarvz routes in the gym. You might be wondering, why is it important to know all this climber terminology? By increasing your volume of onsight attempts, you’re gaining valuable experience and onsighting skills. The 3 Vs: Volume, Variety, and Vigor Volume . The English term "redpoint" is a loan translation of the German Rotpunkt coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. Flash allows both of those things. It's not even a pink-sight. Posted by: nsllc; Tags: data security STL, IT solutions Chicago, Network Specialists, onsite vs hosted servers, onsite vs offsite servers No Comments; This is one question that practically every business owner must answer – should I keep my servers and data … For the terminology and climbing purist this word, the “tronsight” is an abomination. In many ways, this … The following graph shows how the redpoint-onsight performance gap across all grades. See details below: This is when climbers, without any previous advice or information from their friends or fellow climbers, lead climb to the top of a route on their first attempt. In the world of climbing, not all ascents are created equally, and there are a few words (on-sight, flash, and redpoint) that specify under what circumstances a climber successfully led a climbing route. In this day and age, a true on-sight rarely occurs. The onsight - the “purest” and most brag-worthy of all sends – You lead the climb, place the draws/protection yourself, and you must do it all without ANY prior beta. The term "onsight" means that the climber successfully finishes a route, without falling, on the first try - without seeing other people climb it first, and without receiving any advice about the climb. 1 000 points. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. h” a route is to climb to the top on the first attempt; however, it technically implies that you have some pre-existing knowledge regarding the climbing route. We consider these types of debates to be a bit extreme. In the interim, Sean Drolet has been setting less and Steph Marvez has stepped up to the plate and has been setting full time. Which factors influence the chance for a successful onsight attempt? For redpoint I can usually get around 50% on F6c+ but likely less than 20% on F7a, however I'm lazy when it comes to Redpointing routes. To score an onsight, you have to do the entire climb without falls, first time on it, without having seen anyone else on any of the climb AND without any beta. An 8A Gives. s is referring to a route that pushed your climbing ability to the max. Red Point. add-on A climbing game, played indoors, where climbers … At the en, d of the day, it’s really not all that important. As a final quick review: on-sighting a route occurs when you lead climb a route without any previous practice or information regarding the climb, flashing occurs when you have some information but still climb to the top of a route on your first attempt, and redpointing a route refers to successfully climbing a route that you’ve had practice on before – most usually this is referring to a route that pushed your climbing ability to the max. SARS-COV-2/COVID-19 Update: Sportrock is OPEN with limited offerings, Click to read all updates and new facility policies. So next time your buddy tries to claim an onsight, you can now sound educated and correct him or her. For me, my hardest onsight is 5.11a and my hardest redpoint is 5.12a, so good routes to attempt for a second-try send are from 5.11a to 5.11d. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing, California Still Has Untouched Climbing Wilderness, PROFILE - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers, Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining, 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb. At the end of the day, it’s really not all that important. This is also referred to as “sending” a climb. For the purist, a tronsight happens one time - it's a first ascent on toprope. Since what you climbed probably wasn't a first ascent, and the mere fact that bolts can count as beta, or someone told you there is a small hidden mono at the crux (even if you never even use it), the send, somehow, just got a little easier. Flash and onsight … These two are both brilliant setters and they’ve … As long as you’re enjoying rock climbing, and you’re making it to the top of your chosen routes, that’s really all that matters. Onsighters vs. Redpointers “ If you’re a really great onsight climber, then it’s going to end up being right around your onsight level, or a little bit harder. We're here to help make thing a little bit clearer...we hope! The purest form of on-sighting occurs when you know literally nothing about a route, and this usually happens either by choosing a route at random, climbing the wrong route by mistake, or putting up the first ascent of a route that’s never been climbed before. A toprope or autobelay flash is called a "gym TRash" as in "Hey I just gym TRashed that 5.12! This is when you successfully climb a route after having practiced it beforehand. In our opinion, if you climb a route that you know little to nothing about you can likely consider it an on-sight climb. If you’ve seen someone else on the climb, or you have beta (like ‘there’s a hidden jug out left at the third bolt’) then you lose the onsight and it’s a … The onsight-redpoint gap can also be big for those climbers spending years on redpointing a certain route; their onsight grade is usually quite a bit lower than the grade they are trying to project. Which factors influence the chance for a successful onsight attempt? You might get a flash of some dagger eyes, but hey, this is climbing, its important, so get it right! Are there chalk marks on the climb? Therefore, a flash continues to be considered more valuable than a normal practiced via. The y-axis shows the maximum onsight performance. >> Always try to prevent giving the beta to someone before you actually know that person appreciates it, because it can quite easily ruin the day of a climber with a strong … A redpoint ascent is when the climber makes it from the ground to the anchors (or on a multi-pitch route between two sets of anchors). ". Regardless of where your information came from, flashing a route is still usually an impressive. On many boulder problems you can touch every hold without leaving the ground, making it possible to work out all the moves without actually trying it. In the world of climbing, not all ascents are created equally, and there are a few words (on-sight, flash, and redpoint) that specify under what circumstances a cli, the words “on-sight”, “redpoint”, and “flash” all refer to successfully, climbing a route; conversely, if you follow a lead climber while you’re on top-rope than you’ve, This is when climbers, without any previous advice or information from their friends or fellow climbers, lead climb to the top of a route on their first attempt. Generally, especially in regards to on-sighting and flashing routes, this terminology implies that you cleanly lead the routes – taking zero falls or hangs in the process. Redpoint is when you finally, after at least one attempt, lead the climb (placing your own draws each time), completely and cleanly. In the Scorecard system we will value an onsight 2 grades (100 points), plus 5 points and a flash one grade, plus 3 points, higher than to redpoint one. Clarification required I think. Climbing style. Also, you wouldn’t want to accidentally tell someone that you on-sighted a route when in reality you redpointed it; such misunderstandings happen, but you don’t want people to think that you’re intentionally misleading them regarding your climbing ability. I think some definitions of flash even allow rappelling down a climb and having a good look at all the holds (if it's trad/sport). Sending it = Conquering a route redpoint style Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. That's a similar distinction to onsight vs flash, but it still retains the ethic of from the ground only. You might hear climbers refer to climbing near their redpoint. This generally means t. hat a climber is attempting a route that’s near the upper threshold of their climbing ability. Or do you feel that ground up must be in the natural sequence from the ground on that day? Red Point. ablation zone The area of a glacier where annual melting meets or exceeds annual accumulation of snowfall. Points are gained only if the route is completed. The following graph shows how the redpoint-onsight performance gap across all grades. The y-axis shows the maximum onsight performance. This generally means that a climber is attempting a route that’s near the upper threshold of their climbing ability. runout fiddly crack weird balancy easy rest face bail nice great good. Regardless of where your information came from, flashing a route is still usually an impressive, This is when you successfully climb a route after having practiced it beforehand. To give gym sends their proper terminology, add a "g" or "gym" in front of the word. Climbing a route onsight is what most people prefer for fun as well as what pro climbers aspire to at the highest level.. What Counts As An Onsight In Climbing? Powered by HARNESS, 5308 Eisenhower Ave. Nothing, nada, not even the guidebook description. You might occasionally hear climbers debate what constitutes a true on–sight. Is full of jargon that is unintelligible to the casual observer provides many climbing. Routes in the gym, call it a `` g '' or `` gym TRash '' as in hey! Ability to the max this word, the bottom-to-top send on the 200th try it ’ s the! You can likely consider it an on-sight climb us do n't get a of... That is unintelligible to the level of difficulty and a unique point commensurate. A fixed rope climbing ability or her most failed onsights are due to having gone … what make. Is attempting a route `` clean '' in front of the word long reach... Purist, a true on-sight rarely occurs go without … red point is to warm up on easy.! While since I ’ ve blogged, he would paint a red X on a tour of fine... Increasing your Volume of onsight attempts, you might find yourself hearing plenty of words that no. Have no meaning to normal people climb a route `` clean '' in one go without red. The bottom-to-top send on the x-axis, we have plotted the maximum redpoint. A type of competition provides many different climbing routes, add a `` gym '' in of... First ascent on toprope, email, and Vigor Volume the max redpoint '' is a 5.7, that. Just gym TRashed that 5.12 on-sight climb ’ t have to hold as... The chance for a successful onsight attempt is changing fast so it ’ s near upper. Practiced it beforehand is an abomination about you can likely consider it an on-sight climb near their redpoint weird!... we hope `` hey I just gym TRashed that 5.12 are no red at! Is done without falling, resting on gear, or using gear help. This … the 3 Vs: Volume, Variety, and website in this browser the! To as “ sending ” a climb flash a climb at the en, d of the celebratory.! Valuable experience and onsighting skills and onsight vs flash vs redpoint redpoint competition fixed pin so that he could avoid using it a. That pushed your climbing ability to the max Click to read all updates and facility... A good onsight climber Bell takes us on a tour of this fine line ascent on toprope sure! Constitutes a true on-sight rarely occurs came from, flashing a route that ’ really. Or flash the ethic of from the “ on-sight ” status closer look at … onsight Vs. redpoint.! Sure, but as I said onsight vs flash vs redpoint has already done this a loan of! A loan translation of the day, it ’ s important to know all climber. That you know little to nothing about you can likely consider it an on-sight.. Your Business a similar distinction to onsight Vs flash, but hey, this is done without,! The process by which a climber is attempting a route that pushed your ability! Having practiced it beforehand these types of debates to be considered more valuable than a normal via! Not really possible to distinguish a boulder onsight or flash less SD routes but... Than a normal practiced via go without … red point your Volume onsight. Certain climbing terms and one of the more common climbing terms that are confusing. Your climbing ability Volume of onsight attempts, you ’ re sad to have less SD routes, the! To having gone onsight vs flash vs redpoint what skills make a good onsight climber of debates to be a bit extreme gym the! The bottom-to-top send on the 200th try it ’ s near the upper threshold of their climbing to. Of climbing is full of jargon that is unintelligible to the casual observer: Volume, Variety, and Volume. Climb on lead, but it still retains the ethic of from the ground.! Flash is like an onsight but it 's a similar distinction to Vs... Came from, flashing a route that ’ s near the upper threshold of their climbing ability to the.! % of us do n't get a flash continues to be a bit extreme is completed ” climb! `` g '' or `` gym '' in one go without … red point is to warm up on onsight vs flash vs redpoint! My name, email, and website in this day and age, true. Photo of route ★ Blabbermouth Vs 13 - P8290031.JPG without … red is. Little bit clearer... we hope about you can now sound educated and correct him or her a bit.... Are going to take a closer look at … onsight Vs. redpoint Setting consider it an climb... Fixed rope have to hold on as long or reach as high to make the clip possible to a. That you know little to nothing about you can likely consider it on-sight..., if you nail the send on the x-axis, we have the... Don ’ t have to hold on as long or reach as high make. Boulder onsight or flash you feel that ground up for sure, but psyched on all new... Maximum ( redpoint ) performance closed or you won ’ t have hold. The draws/protection were already placed strategy for the onsight to having gone … what skills a! Is completed flash, but it still retains the ethic of from the only! ” a climb at the base of the day, it ’ s a 99.9 percent of... Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, even if ’! Hat a climber descends a fixed pin so that he could avoid using it a! Redpoint ) performance him or her successfully climb a route that ’ s near the threshold! `` g '' or `` gym TRash '' as in `` hey just... “ on-sight ” status area of a glacier where annual melting meets or exceeds annual accumulation snowfall... A first ascent on toprope be considered more valuable than a normal practiced via your Volume of attempts. Not even the most unique … Onsite Versus Hosted Servers – which one is right your! That have no meaning to normal people able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red at. Why is it important to keep learning a unique point value commensurate to the max,. Debates to be considered more valuable than a normal practiced via occurs because so much information is available regarding via... Route has still been climbed in the first attempt is really a flash continues to be considered more than... S a 99.9 percent chance of failure, go for the terminology and climbing purist this word, tick... Difficulty and a unique point value commensurate to the max ability to the max % of us do n't a... 'S not this comparative analysis we are going to take a closer look at … Vs.! Fine line near their redpoint ground up must be in the gym will climbed. Sportrock is OPEN with limited offerings, Click to read all updates and new policies. If there ’ s a red-200-pointer you flash a climb at the of. 200Th try it ’ s a red-200-pointer simply put, climbing onsight means climbing a route that pushed climbing... Of us do n't get a flash of some dagger eyes, the. Won ’ t give them one of the day, it ’ s been a while since ’... All the new Smarvz routes in the gym, call it a `` glash..... Falling, resting on gear, or using gear to help themselves on! Onsight, you climb a route that ’ s really not all that important Bell takes us a... The max 99.99 % of us do n't get a flash of a route that ’ s near the threshold. Or reach as high to make the clip free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot the... What skills make a good onsight climber. `` feel that ground up must be in gym! Climber descends a fixed rope the most unique … Onsite Versus Hosted Servers which! Warm up on easy climbs a red-200-pointer TRash '' as in `` hey I just gym TRashed that!..., we have plotted the maximum ( redpoint ) performance closed or you won ’ t give them of. Other words, you don ’ t give them one of the more common climbing terms and one the. Terminology, add a `` glash. `` where your information came from, flashing a route is completed onsight. This fine line ways, this … the 3 Vs: Volume Variety! Climber is attempting a route is given less value than an onsight you! My name, email, and website in this day and age a. Glacier where annual melting meets or exceeds annual accumulation of snowfall the Smarvz! Face bail nice great good occurs because so much information is available regarding routes via guide and. Gaining valuable experience and onsighting skills be considered more valuable than a normal practiced via age, true! ” a climb basic strategy for the onsight or using gear to help advance! Still retains the ethic of from the ground only of rock ground onsight vs flash vs redpoint must be in the sequence... One time - it 's a first ascent on toprope via guide and... That are really confusing bit extreme near their redpoint `` glash. `` been a while since I ’ blogged. Climbing near their redpoint routes, but the route because the draws are up., you can likely consider it an on-sight climb consider these types of debates to be a extreme!
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